Concealer & Flash Photography

Under-eye concealer and flash photography are not always compatible bedfellows, as Eva Longoria discovered recently when she was snapped by Paparazzi in LA. I don’t have permission to post the images in question here, but click on the above link to see what I’m talking about. Essentially, her under-eye area looks ghostly-white in contrast to the rest of her face.

I’m not convinced that there wasn’t a bit of photoshop used to enhance this glare, as Eva Longoria’s make-up is normally flawless, whereas tabloids and paparazzi are unscrupulous. But, my purpose for highlighting (if you pardon the pun) this story today is that this is a common make-up misdemeanour. I know, because I was a serial offender! I look like a raccoon in many college photos, thanks to liberal use of YSL Touche Éclat (pictured below) in the early 00s!

This under-eye glare is caused by under-eye concealers and powders that contain “light-reflective particles” (YSL Touche Éclat is a common culprit). Light reflective particles are brilliant say for someone with mature skin or dark circles under their eyes. They act like tiny little mirrors that reflect natural light, thereby making the skin look fresh, youthful and radiant. Great in day-light; however, not so great on camera. You see, when the concealer or powder is exposed to the extreme light of flash photography, it’s almost like you have placed a giant mirror under your eyes. The flash bounces harshly off the light reflective particles, thereby making your under-eyes look scarily white in photographs.

So, how can you avoid this. Well, the main thing is to choose concealers and powders that don’t contain titanium dioxide (the light-reflecting ingredient). A quick trick is to avoid labels that contain words such as “brightening”, “luminous”, “radiant”, light-reflecting” etc. Apply your concealer on top of your foundation, blend well, and set with a matte powder. If you are particularly worried, you can use a mattifying / clarifying primer underneath your make-up. Finally, if you are going to an event where there will be lots of cameras, you may wish to choose a slightly darker shade of concealer than normal (but NOT darker than your foundation).

Now, if only I could figure out a way that we can all look like Eva Longoria!

Yours in style,
Caroline

Follow me on Facebook, Twitter, YouTube or via RSS.

Information contained in this blog post may not be copied or reproduced without permission from Style By Caroline.

How to Apply Eyeliner

In my last post, I briefly outlined the various types of eyeliners on the market. In this follow-up post, I will impart a few tips that I’ve learned over the years, which will hopefully make eyeliner application a little bit earlier for you.

CHOOSING THE RIGHT EYELINER COLOUR

• What to consider: There are two things to consider when choosing your perfect shade of eyeliner; AGE and HAIR COLOUR.
• Hair (light): If you have blonde, red or medium brown hair, opt for lighter shades of eyeliner such as brown or grey.
• Hair (dark): If you have dark brown or black hair, then you should opt for darker shades.
• Age (young): Youth is a time for experimentation, so feel free to try out coloured eyeliners! As you grow older, tone down the colours a bit.
• Age (mature): The older you are, the more conservative you should be with your eyeliner colour. Darker shades will actually look quite harsh against your skin so choose soft browns and greys for a more flattering look.

LINING YOUR UPPER LASHES

• Keep as close to the last line as possible. There should be no gaps between the eyeliner and your lash line.
• The line should be thinnest at the inner corner, graduating in thickness outwards to the outer corner.
• Don’t pull stretch the eyelid outwards when applying liner as it will distort the lash-line and will make your liner look messy. Instead, gently press the skin on your brow-bone upwards, which will make it easier to see and do your eyeliner.
• It may help to look downwards into a mirror when applying your eyeliner.
• If you’re hand is a bit wobbly, rest your elbow on a table. You may also like to rest your baby finger on your cheekbone (see image below) to steady your hand as you line your eye.
• Clean up any smudges with a clean cotton bud soaked in eye-liner remover.

Lining your upper lashes

LINING YOUR LOWER LASHES

• For a SOFT look, dip a slim angled brush (e.g. MAC #266) into your chosen eye-shadow colour. Then, starting at the outer corner of your eye, place the brush immediately underneath the lash line and work inwards to the halfway point of the lash line. Stop here. Be sure to keep the colour as close to the lash-line as possible.
• For a DRAMATIC look, use a waterproof eyeliner on the waterline (kohl pencil or gel pencil is best).
• For a more AWAKE and alert look, line the waterline with a flesh toned pencil.
• Clean up any smudges with a clean cotton bud soaked in eye-liner remover.

Lining your lower lashes

CAROLINE’S DAYTIME LOOK

• Easy peasy: I only line the outer half of the upper eyelid for day-time. This creates the illusion of full, soft lashes, yet it looks extremely natural. To achieve this I use a waterproof pencil or a gel liner.

My favourite daytime look

CREATING A CAT-EYE / FLICK

• First, line your upper lashes: Apply eyeliner to the upper lash line as normal using a gel or liquid eyeliner. Keep the line thin in the inner corner and gradually make it thicker towards the outer corner.
• Getting the flick: Line a credit card or folded piece of paper against your face, connecting your nostril, the outer corner of your eye and the end of your eyebrow. Using the credit card or paper as a ruler, create an upward flick on the outer corner of your eye with your eyeliner.
• Clean & tidy: Clean up any smudges with a cotton bud soaked in eye-liner remover.
• Conceal: Apply concealer underneath the eye when you’re finished, for a crisp and clean look.

An easy ‘cat eye’ flick

I hope these tips helped you. There are a few excellent videos on YouTube which might also be of assistance:

• PIXIWOO: Eyeliner and brow shapes
• PIXIWOO: Basics – Liquid Liner
• PIXIWOO: Basics Everyday Liner Tutorial
• NURBERXO: The Perfect Eyeliner Every Time
• (Irish make-up artist) LITTLE KIVA: How to Apply Eyeliner, Its Uses, Its Types…

Yours in style,
Caroline

Follow us on Facebook, Twitter, YouTube or via RSS.

Information contained in this blog post may not be copied or reproduced without permission from Style By Caroline.

Types of Eyeliners

In the past week, I have received a number of enquires from people regarding eyeliners – everything from how to choose the right one, to how to apply it without looking like a panda! With this in mind, I have put together a guide which will hopefully be of assistance to you. I have split it into two parts; this post (part 1) deals with the different types of eyeliners on the market today, and part 2 outlines some of my favourite eyeliner application techniques.

1. EYESHADOW OR CAKE EYELINER

• Difficulty level: Easy
• Pros: Soft finish / suitable for mature skin / variety of colours.
• Cons: Fades the fastest / can smudge and become displaced easily / not water resistant.
• Caroline’s top tip: Apply your chosen eyeshadow colour using a small angled brush (like a MAC #266). Dip the brush in water beforehand for a more intense colour.

Soft browns, greys and khakis look great as eyeliners

2. PENCIL EYELINER

• Difficulty level: Easy.
• Pros: Easy/ versatile (you can do a sharp line or a soft smoky blended line) / variety of colours.
• Cons: Can fade, smudge and become displaced / not entirely water-resistant (even the waterproof ones).
• Caroline’s top tip: Sharpen the eyeliner pencil after every use.

3. GEL OR CREAM EYELINER

• Difficulty level: Medium.
• Pros: Clean, crisp finish / waterproof / doesn’t move or fade.
• Cons: Practice required / product can dry out quite quickly / expensive (good cream liners can cost €20, with a good brush costing nearly as much).
• Caroline’s top tip: Coat the bristles of the brush from root to tip with the product and then wipe the excess off on the rim of the gel pot/jar. This will enable maximum precision on application.

MAC Fluidline Gel Liner

MAC #266 Angled Liner Brush

4. LIQUID EYELINER

• Difficulty level: Hard.
  
• Pros: Clean, crisp finish / great for creating dramatic looks.
• Cons: Hard to master / unsuitable for mature skin.
• Caroline’s Top Tip: Instead of using the wand that comes with the liner, use an angled liner brush (example pictured above), which I find is much easier to control. Make sure that you coat the brush hairs from root to tip for better results.

Caroline’s favourite liquid eyeliner: Benefit Magic Ink

In my next post, I will discuss my favourite eyeliner application techniques.

Yours in style,
Caroline

Follow us on Facebook, Twitter, YouTube or via RSS.

Information contained in this blog post may not be copied or reproduced without permission from Style By Caroline.

Video: Cheap Make-up Storage

Make-up supplies can be really expensive and I’m always on the hunt for cheap alternative solutions. Here are some of my star buys from B&Q, of all places!

SBC Make-up: Cheap Make-up Storage Solutions

Yours in style,
Caroline

Follow us on Facebook, Twitter, YouTube or via RSS.

Information contained in this blog post may not be copied or reproduced without permission from Style By Caroline.

Bright Eyeshadow

I’m doing an exciting photoshoot next week which involves lots of colour; this is an exciting departure as much of my make-up work tends to involve more traditional colours.

One small problemo though – I need lots of brights and neons for this shoot however I’m reluctant to shell out for my usual MACs etc. as I know I’ll have limited demand from my clients for such brights in the future.

However, quite unexpectedly, I found the solution whilst having a browse in Boots yesterday - this 9-shade “Poptastic” palette from Collection 2000, priced at only €6.99! The colours are perfect for next week’s photoshoot, and even though I expected the quality to be rubbish, I decided to take a chance on the palette as it was so cheap.

Poptastic Collection from Collection 2000

I put the palette throught its paces this evening and I found it to be surprisingly good; the pans are a good size (6g), the quality is seriously impressive (virtually no fallout), the pigmentation (depth of colour) is fairly good too and the colours are easy to blend.

The packet says that the shadows will last up to 8 hours and are crease resistent. This doesn’t impress me hugely as any shadow worth its salt should last all day and evening with little fading and creasing. Nonethesless, I haven’t seen it on long enough to prove this claim right or wrong.

I did two looks this evening using this palette. In both cases, I used a primer and a white eyeliner pencil under the eyeshadow (a white eye pencil helps the colours to ‘pop’).

Look 1: Blue, Green & Grey

Look 2: Purple & Yellow

I really like the top look in particular – I used the green on the inner corner, blue in the middle and outer corners, and the dark grey in the crease. This is a look that I will definitely be replicating this weekend, and I think it could be replicated easily using the yellow, purple or pink shadows too!

Enjoy the bank holiday!

Yours in style,
Caroline

Follow us on Facebook, Twitter, YouTube or via RSS.

Information contained in this blog post may not be copied or reproduced without permission from Style By Caroline.

Video: Foundation Basics

Due to popular demand, here’s a video dedicated to foundations!

Click here to view: SBC Make-up | Foundation Basics

(Sorry I look and sound a little poorly in this video – I’m just getting over a headcold!)

FOUNDATION BASICS
1. Preparing your skin for foundation
2. Choosing the right product
3. Application techniques
4. How to make your foundation last longer

I forgot to mention in the video that foundations should be replaced every 12 months (or beforehand, if you notice a chance in consistency / odour). Be sure to store your foundation per the manufacturer’s guidelines.

Yours in style,
Caroline

Follow us on Facebook, Twitter, YouTube or via RSS.

Information contained in this blog post may not be copied or reproduced without permission from Style By Caroline.

Video: Hide Sickness/Tiredness with Make-up

I’m feeling a little under the weather at the moment, but, rather than sit on the couch watching trashy day-time tv, I decided to do a video on make-up products and techniques for when you’re feeling ill / tired / stressed or run-down.

Click here to view: SBC Make-up | Make-up for When You’re Feeling Sick / Tired /Run down.

FEATURED PRODUCTS

• Anti-Redness Colour Corrector (pre-foundation): Armani Colour Corrector in “Yellow” (now discontinued) / Benefit “You’re Bluffing”
• Concealer: Catrice Concealer Palette / Bobbi Brown Creamy Concealer in “Warm Ivory”) / Bobbi Brown Colour Corrector (“Light Bisque”)
• Powder: Bobbi Brown Loose Powder (“Pale Yellow”) / Benefit “Bluff Dust”
• Blush: Barbara Daly Cream Blush in “Rose” and “Whisper” / MAC Compact Blush in “Strada” / “Harmony”

OTHER USEFUL PRODUCTS

• White eye-liner pencil (waterproof)
• Brown eye-liner pencil (waterproof)
• Brown Mascara (waterproof)
• Neutral lip gloss

Yours in style,
Caroline

Follow us on Facebook, Twitter, YouTube or via RSS.

Information contained in this blog post may not be copied or reproduced without permission from Style By Caroline.

Debs/Prom Make-up

I remember my Debs* with great fondness, for my Debs was pretty much the first time that any of my friends/family/classmates had ever seen me wearing make-up, not to mind all dressed up in a fancy frock! (How things have changed eh!)

*For non-Irish Readers, ‘debs’ is short for Debutantes’ Ball, which is akin to one’s Prom Night in the US.

Fast forward 10 years and I now have the pleasure of sharing in many other debs’ transformations.

If you are heading to your debs over the next few weeks, here are some make-up considerations to bear in mind:

• Fake Tan: Don’t overdue it, no matter how much you are tempted. You do not want to look back at your photos in a few years time and see that you resembled a tangerine. Get it done 2 days before the debs and it will have faded to a lovely natural, even glow by the time the big day arrives.
• Foundation: If wearing fake tan, ensure that you opt for a slightly darker shade of foundation than you would normally. Otherwise there will be a stark contrast between your head and shoulders, especially on camera (flash photography makes your face look whiter).
• Powder: Prevent your face getting shiny by wearing plenty of powder over your foundation.
• Blush: Add a sweep of blush to the apples of your cheeks for a soft, feminine look. Blush also looks great on camera!
• Highighting products: Avoid wearing too many highlighting products as these can make you look shiny, even sweaty (heaven forbid!) on camera!
• Lips: Be sure to bring your lipstick/lipgloss in your bag with you. Avoid wearing lip gloss if you are wearing your hair down.
• False eyelashes: Nothing turns a look from glam to gorgeous quite like some false lashes. My favoutites are the Kimberly Walsh lashes by Eylure (followed by the Nicola Roberts lashes), which really open up the eyes, without looking or feeling heavy. (It’s best to cut them in half, as the full strip can look a little OTT.

Kimberly Walsh lashes for Eylure

Finally, and most importantly, be sure to enjoy every second of your Debs/Prom!

If you would like to find out more about Style By Caroline Make-up service for Debs and other occasions, click here.

Yours in style,
Caroline

Follow us on Facebook, Twitter, YouTube or via RSS.

Information contained in this blog post may not be copied or reproduced without permission from Style By Caroline.

Make-up: Blue Eyes

READER’S STYLEMMA

“Hi Caroline, I tend to use the same make-up every day – I’m not that adventurous when I come to it at all, because I often find I’m just wasting money on products that don’t really suit me. Plus I don’t like the feeling of wearing too much make-up; I like to keep it simple. In particular, I tend to go for the same eye-make up all the time, the eye shadow is always some sort of nude/taupe colour, and brown eyeliner and brown mascara because I find black too harsh. I’d love to wear something a bit different that would enhance the colour of my eyes, but at the same time is not too showy and not too time-consuming to apply. I’d like to be a bit more adventurous! Any tips perhaps on colours that would be suitable for daytime wear?”

- Galway Reader

CAROLINE’S SOLUTION

This is a really common dilemma. So many people speak of becoming ‘stuck in a rut’ with their make-up – which is entirely understandable. When you find a look that works for you, it can be a little scary to try something different, plus, as our reader rightly mentioned, the high cost of cosmetics is prohibitive to experimentation!

The Brief:

Our reader has blue eyes, porcelain skin and medium-brown hair, lashes and brows. She has beautiful, delicate features and enviable bones structure so the challenge for her is to find a looks and colours that will complement and enhance her features, without looking dramatic. Plus we want to keep it simple.

Blue-Eyed Beauties – What to Consider:

• Flattering colours: Generally, the most flattering eye-shadow colours for blue eyes are as follows: taupe, camel, browns, greys, khaki, golds, coppers, rusts and purples. L’Oréal do lovely eyeshadow trios, specifical designed for each eye colour; click here for my review.
• Intensity of colour: The rule of thumb is; the stronger your features, the deeper the colour you can take. However, if you have delicate features like our reader, you might be advised to go with softer or more muted tones.
• Pigmentation: In many cases you have to offset quality for price, so I do suggest where possible, to buy the best quality that you can afford. Do a swatch on your hand before you purchase to get an idea of the depth of the colour and the quality of coverage. If the colour is weak, or the pigmentation is lumpy or has loose particles that spill all over the place, then it’s best to leave it on the shelf.
• Have fun with Eye-liner: Eyeliner is one of the easiest and cheapest way of mixing up a look. Instead of using brown, why not try grey, navy, plum, teal or bronze, for a fun yet polished look. Bloom offers gorgeous Cream Shadow Liners in a myriad of colours, which are super-easy to apply.

Bloom Shadow Liners

Eye-Make-up – Easy Application:

Here is where the colours you choose really come into their own. For a natural daytime look, Sweep a neutral shade (e.g. MAC “Shroom”) all over the lid and brow bone using a clean fluffy brush (e.f. MAC 217). Then, using a blending brush (e.g. MAC 239), blend a small dab of a darker colour into the outer crease / socket (e.g. MAC “Patina” or MAC “Woodwinked”). Blend away any harsh lines using the 217 brush. Finish the look with a sweep of eyeliner and a lick of mascara.

Try a New Look, without Spending a Fortune:

• Substitute shopping with swapping: Instead of splashing out on new products every time you want to experiment with a new look, why not organise a make-up swapping party with a few friends, where you can trade unwanted products with your mates. Alternatively there are a number of trustworthy Irish websites that run swapshops, such as Swapsies by MakeUpAndBeauty.ie or Swap Siopa by Beaut.ie.
• Store Makeover: Go to a make-up store that offers a wide range of make-up brands. Browse the colours and textures on offer and ask the resident make-up artists to try out a few looks on you. I suggest that you try Blush Make-up Boutique in Galway or Brown Thomas Galway.
• Model: As you live in Galway, why not enquire about being a model at a beauty school, such as The School of Make-up Artistry. They regularly have top Irish make-up artists such as Derrick Carberry and Natalie Kinsella running masterclasses. So, not only will you discover new make-up looks, you will also get expert tips for free!

Thanks a million for taking the time to email me with your query and I hope this information helps!

Yours in style,
Caroline

Follow us on Facebook, Twitter or via RSS.

Information contained in this blog post may not be copied or reproduced without permission from Style By Caroline.

Video: Contouring

In this video tutorial, I teach you how to contour your face, using shading and highlighting make-up products:

SBC Makeup – Contouring

Yours in style,
Caroline

Follow us on Facebook, Twitter or via RSS.

Information contained in this blog post may not be copied or reproduced without permission from Style By Caroline.

Video: July Make-up

In this video, I discuss my favourite make-up purchases in July 2010.

SBC Make-up – July 2010 Product Haul

FEATURED PRODUCTS

• Foundation: Chanel Lift Lumiere
• Concealer: Catrice All Round Concealer Palette
• Lip Gloss: Revlon “Coral Reef”, “Pink Pop” and Peach Pearl”
• Blush: MAC “Peaches”
• Cream Liners: Smashbox Cream Eyeliner Palette

Yours in style,
Caroline

Follow us on Facebook, Twitter or via RSS.

Information contained in this blog post may not be copied or reproduced without permission from Style By Caroline.

Camouflage Red Cheeks

READER STYLEMMA

“Hi Caroline, I hope you can help me with a make-up problem. I have really red cheeks and a few broken capillaries as well for good measure. The thing is, I hate wearing heavy foundation but I feel that I have to as otherwise I look roasted! I’ve tried using the ‘green creams’ under my foundation but they just leave a green tint on my face – which is worse than the red! Is there anything that I can do to hide or eliminate the redness?”

CAROLINE’S SOLUTION

Reader, you’re certainly not alone in this issue. Thanks a combination of genetics, climate and environmental factors, Irish people are particularly prone to developing red cheeks. Be aware that redness is a sign of sensitivity so before you go trying to cover it up, you need to get to the root of the problem and see can it be alleviated.

First Things First

• GP Check: The first thing I suggest is to check with your doctor that there isn’t an underlying medical condition or skin ailment which is causing your skin to become inflamed.
• Skincare routine: Secondly, I suggest that you look at your skincare routine and see whether it might be exacerbating the sensitivity. Perhaps you have an allergy to certain cosmetic products, or perhaps the products or techniques that you are using are too abrasive for your skin (e.g. some facial scrubs can be very harsh). There are many brands on the market nowadays which help sensitive skin e.g. La Roche Posay, E45 etc. Perhaps you might consider using products with 100% natural ingredients. Your GP or pharmacist will guide you as to what’s best for your skin type.
• SPF: Thirdly, make sure that you ALWAYS wear a minimum SPF15 on your skin. If you’re an outdoorsy type, consider an even higher SPF.
• Diet: Drink plenty of water and eat a healthy, balanced diet.

Make-up Guidelines

• Base: Before you apply foundation, apply a yellow-based colour corrector to the red areas. My favourite is the Master Corrector (in “Yellow”) by Giorgio Armani* (pictured below). Apply sparingly using a concealer/foundation brush. It will look a little yellowy at first, but by the time you have applied your foundation over it, your skin will have the desired neutral tone.
• Foundation: In terms of foundation, you don’t need to wear a heavy formula once you have used a corrector underneath. Choose a yellowy shade rather than a pinky shade. A yellow base will cancel out your natural redness whereas a pink base will emphasise it. Secure your foundation with a translucent powder.
• Blush: The rule regarding blush is ‘less is more’. Avoid cool pink shades which will only draw out your natural redness. Instead, choose warm peach or brown tones.

*Giorgio Armani cosmetics are available at Brown Thomas Dublin (01-6056666) , Brown Thomas Cork (Tel: 021-4805555) and Dublin Airport. Telephone ordering available from Brown Thomas counters (postage and packaging fee applies).

I hope that this information is beneficial. If anyone else has any tips, be sure to share them with us!

Yours in style,
Caroline

Follow us on Facebook, Twitter or via RSS.

Information contained in this blog post may not be copied or reproduced without permission from Style By Caroline.

Make-up Advice: Blush

To my mind, nothing finishes off a make-up look quite like a sweep of blush. Blush gives a lovely softness to the face, as well as providing subtle (or not-so-subtle, depending on the look that you’re going for) colour to the cheeks. When applied properly, blush can truly transform the dimensions of the face; with a few strategically-places sweeps, you can soften harsh angles, or create contours where there aren’t any. I’ll do a separate post later on the topic of contouring; for the moment we’ll concentrate on the different types of blush, choosing colours and basic application techniques.

TYPES OF BLUSH

1. Powder: The traditional powder compact is still the most popular blush formula on the market. Powder-blush is suitable for all skin types, lasts longer than any other formula, and it comes in the widest range of colours. Apply powder blush over your foundation and face-powder. Illustration: MAC Powder Blush

2. Cream: Cream blushes are gaining tremendous popularity, thanks to the natural flush of cover that they offer. Their light, moist consistency makes them ideal for dry and mature skin types; however, those with oily or combination skin might find that cream blushes disappear from their faces in no time. Apply over foundation and under face-powder. Illustration: Bobbi Brown Pot Rouge.

3. Gel: A first cousin of cream blushes, gel blushes are gaining in popularity. Like cream blushes, they give a natural, dewy glow to the skin. Most gel blushes are oil-free, which means that they are suitable for those with oily skin. Apply over foundation and under face-powder. Illustration: Georgio Armani Face Fabric.

4. Mousse: Mousse blushes are another derivative of the cream blush. They have a softly whipped consistency which glides onto the skin, giving a lovely natural glow. Again, these are most suitable for those with drier skins. Apply over foundation and under face-powder. Illustration: Maybelline Dream Mousse.

5. Liquid: The leader of the pack when it comes to liquid blushes is Benefit’s Benetint. Similar in colour and consistency to Ribena, it gives a fantastic pop of colour to the skin. It’s suitable for all skin types; however, I find that it fades quite fast so it may require top-ups during the day. Apply over foundation and under face-powder. Illustration: Benefit Benetint.

6. Crayon: Similar in consistency to a stick foundation, crayon blushes are ideal for your handbag as they also double up as lipsticks. These are generally suitable for all skin types. Apply over foundation and under face-powder. Illustration: Nars Multiple.

BASIC APPLICATION TECHNIQUES

Where to Place It: The general rule of thumb is that you place blush on the ‘apples’ of your cheeks. (The apples of your cheeks are the chubby parts that pop up when you smile). I like to extend the blush gently up along the cheekbone too for subtle definition. Don’t bring the colour too close to your nose or you will look like you have been in a sauna. Avoid this ‘sauna’ look as follows: draw an imaginary line from the pupil of your eye down to your cheek and blend outwards from this point. Also on the subject of ‘what not to do’, don’t bring the colour above your cheekbones or too far down your cheeks.

Using Powder Blush: Dip the brush into your powder compact. Tap the excess off the brush (you want the bare minimum of colour on the brush or else you will achieve the dreaded ‘Aunt Sally’ look, pictured above). Then blend the colour onto the apples of your cheeks, before finally sweeping the colour up the cheekbones. Repeat as necessary until you have achieved your desired colour. If the colour is too strong, simply apply a sweep of translucent powder over the cheeks, which will tone down the colour.

Using Cream/Gel/Mousse/Liquid Blush: Instead of using a brush, use your fingertips. Dab 2-3 dots on the apples of your cheeks and cheekbones, and blend gently and evenly. Reapply as necessary. Remember to ‘seal’ the colour with some translucent powder or else it will disappear quickly.

CHOOSE THE RIGHT COLOUR FOR YOUR SKINTONE

Discover Your Best Colour: The quickest and easiest way to determine what blush tone suits you best is to pinch your cheeks, which will cause your cheeks to flush. Whatever colour your cheeks flush naturally will always suit you best!

Warm Toned Skin: If your skin has yellow undertones or is sallow in colour, or if you have freckles or tan easily, then your skin is warm in tone. Choose shades of blush that have warmth to complement your skin-tone e.g. honey, coral, peach, apricot, peachy-pink, hot pink, warm red, bronze and brown. Irish celebrities with warm-toned skin include: Bláthnaid Ní Chofaigh, Sheana Keane, Gráinne Seoige and Leigh Arnold.

Cool Toned Skin: Cool skin is recognized by blue or pink undertones. Many Irish people have cool-toned skin, which is often pale and doesn’t tan very easily. Choose shades of blush that are cooler in colour e.g. pastel pink, rose, plum, crimson, wine, blue-red and terracotta. Irish celebrities with cool-toned skin include:Amy Huberman, Gemma Hayes and Aoibinn Ní Shuilleabháin.

Note that your skin-tone can change. Causes include: aging, environmental conditions, medications, fake tanning products etc.

CAROLINE’S TOP TIPS

• Buy a Good Brush: Invest in a high-quality blush brush, with soft, natural fibres. Wash the brush regularly with a brush cleanser.
• Apply Sparingly: Blush is easy to put on but not so easy to tone down. Build up your colour gradually.
• Blend Thoroughly: Ensure that you blend thoroughly so that you’re not left with harsh lines.
• Coordinate Colour: Ensure that your choice of blush colour complements the rest of your make-up look.
• Intensity: Generally, the darker the skin-tone, the bolder the colour can be. Likewise, the lighter the skin-tone, the softer the colour choice should be.
• Ask for Help: Many stores nowadays have trained make-up artists on hand to help you choose the right colours and textures.

I hope that today’s tutoral was beneficial. If you have any queries or comments, don’t hesitate to get in touch with me.

Yours in style,
Caroline

Follow us on Facebook, Twitter or via RSS.

Information contained in this blog post may not be copied or reproduced without permission from Style By Caroline.

Summery Make-up

Nice weather + new make-up products = today’s make-up look.

This look is a doddle to apply and is a Summer holiday look (long-lasting, natural looking, without the requirement for zillions of products).

PRODUCTS

Face:

• Tinted Moisturiser – Laura Mercier (”Nude”)
• Concealer – Barbara Daly Cream Concealer (“Medium”)
• Blush – Nars Multiple (“Orgasm”)
• Powder – Rimmel Silky Loose Powder
• Bronzer – Bobbi Brown Shimmer Brick (“Bronze”)

Eyes:

• Base – MAC Paint Pot (“Painterly”)
• Eyeshadows – Bobbi Brown Shimmer Brick (“Bronze”)
• Eyeliner – Smashbox Cream Liner (“Deep Bronze”)
• Brows – MAC Brow Crayon (“Stud”) and MAC Brow Gel (”Clear”)

Lips:

• Lipstick – Nars Multiple (“Orgasm”)
• Lipgloss – Revlon SuperLustrous Lipgloss (“Coral Reef”)

(Not all products featured in the above image were used)

Top Tips:

• Ensure that your tinted moisturiser has a minimum SPF15.
• I find that I have to apply a little more powder than usual in this muggy weather, to prevent my look going from glowy to gooey!
• If using a cream blush like I did, be sure to apply it before/under powder.
• You will notice that I have used some ‘multifunctional’ products i.e. the Bobbi Brown Shimmer Brick and the Nars Multiple. When going on holidays, it’s a great idea to bring multi-tasking products with you so as you are not weighed down with cosmetics.
• To complete my easy breezy Summer look, I ran a few curls into my hair using a GHD, spritzed it with some John Freida Shine Spray and a dash of hairspray to hold.

Yours in style,
Caroline

Follow us on Facebook, Twitter or via RSS.

UNII Palette & Z-Palette

In my previous post, I taught you how to de-pot eyeshadows; however, it’s no good in removing eyeshadow pans unless you have somewhere to put them. So today, I’m doing a review of magnetic eyeshadow palettes.

The guinea pigs in question are the UNII Palette and the Z-Palette. As both products are quite different, it is not my objective to pick a winner – rather to let you decide which is best for you.

Z-PALETTE

• Order Process: I submitted my Z-Palette order through Annmarie Judd (Irish make-up artist and distributor for Z-Palettes). The order process was very simple and straightforward, and was processed via Paypal. I submitted my order on a Thursday morning and received my order the very next afternoon (postage within Republic of Ireland). The items were very well packaged also.
• Choice: Z-Pallettes come in two designs (black and zebra-print), plus two sizes (large and small).
• Price: Large palettes are priced at €19 and small palettes are priced at €14. Note that you will need to purchase magnets separately, which are priced at €4 for €40. There is a postage and packaging fee of €4 per order.
• Appearance: According to the website, Z-Palettes are made of a “high quality matte paper”. I wasn’t sure what this meant exactly until I saw the product in the flesh i.e. it’s the same packaging that Benefit Cosmetics use. On the plus side, this means that the packaging is 70% recyclable; however, I wonder after some time in my make-up kit will it begin to look a little disheveled. Nonetheless, it appears hardwearing, plus it’s easy to clean.
• Pros: The clear cover means that you can see exactly what’s in it before you open it (ideal if you have a few of these palettes on the go). Also, the large size is actually very large (accommodates 27 MAC eyeshadows), and the magnetic base has a good strong hold.
• Cons: The palettes themselves are shallow and will only accommodate pans with a maximum depth of 4mm (you may find yourself caught for space with some brands). I also think that it’s a hassle to have to buy the magnets separately plus I wonder whether they will cope with the wear and tear of living in my make-up kit. Time will tell!

UNII PALETTE

• Order Process: I submitted my order via the UNII Palette website. The order process is simple and you can pay via Paypal, Google Checkout or Amazon. Delivery took about 5 working days (from US to Ireland) and the packaging was excellent.
• Choice: The UNII Palette is available in five different colours (pink, blue, yellow, purple and silver). Only one size available.
• Price: $29 each or 2 for €28 and 3 for $27 (magnets included). Free shipping to the US and Canada. I paid €53.10 for 2 palettes (including postage and packaging to Ireland).
• Appearance: UNII Palettes are very pretty to look at, but more importantly, they are very very strong. They have a deep tray which will accommodate 99% of make-up pans, plus they have a very secure clip which ensures that they don’t pop open.
• Pros: The hard plastic case means that it will withhold any clattering about in my make-up case. I love the fact that it has a large clear mirror in the interior, plus a rubber seal around the edge to prevent leakage. You also receive magnets with labels that you can affix to your products, plus an instruction card which shows you how to depot your make-up. (Similarly there are great videos, photographs and written instructions on the site for depotting and maintenance).
• Cons: My only quibble is the fact that the palette is quite small. (It will accommodate a maximum of 14 MAC eyeshadows) and as a professional make-up artist I would get great use out of a larger size.

My Completed UNII Palettes

I hope that the above reviews are of use to you. Both palettes offer value for money but only you can decide which suits your needs best. If you have any queries, don’t hesitate to contact me.

Yours in style,
Caroline

Follow us on Facebook, Twitter or via RSS.

How to 'De-Pot' Eyeshadow

In my professional make-up kit, I had loads of individual eye-shadow ‘pots’. However, the sheer volume of individual eye-shadow pots in my collection was causing problems of late, namely:

• Din: You know the noise that a box of Lego makes when you dig your hand into it? My eye-shadow kit created a similar racket.
• Delay: Trying to find the exact shadow I was looking for was like trying to find a needle in a haystack.
• Damage: Even though the packaging on most individual eyeshadows is excellent, I found, after a while, that the eyeshadows were getting damaged from being tossed about in the make-up kit.
• Disorganisation: I’m a neat freak and hate any kind of mess. 28 individual eyeshadows clattering around in my make-up kit equals one great big mess, in my mind.

In light of the above, I decided that the only solution would be to remove the eyeshadow pans from their original plastic casing, and reorganise them in a new palette. After watching a few Youtube demonstrations on how to de-pot eyeshadows, I figured that it looked quite easy so I gave it a go. Mercifully, it worked out brilliantly so I took a few pictures to share with you in a tutorial.

For the purposes of this exercise I used MAC eyeshadows; however the same technique will work for many other make-up brands.

What You Will Need

• Large, clean surface area to work on
• Individual eye-shadows
• Empty magnetic storage palette + magnets*
• Straightening irons
• Greaseproof paper
• An old tweezers
• Scissors (to cut magnets and greaseproof paper to size)

*I used UNII Palettes in this demonstration shown, but I will be doing a review of both UNII and Z-Palettes very shortly.

Step 1: Separate the Casing

• You will notice a small crevice along the clasp of the eye-shadow casing. Work the flat end of the tweezers into this crevice. Then twist the tweezers clockwise, which will force the inner ‘pot’ to pop out of the outer casing. See photographs below.

Step 2: Remove the Eyeshadow Pan from the Casing

• Pre-heat your straightening irons. Once fully-heated, place a square of greaseproof paper over one of the metal plates (this is to protect your straightener from melting plastic or glue). Then, place the inner casing containing the eyeshadow on top of the greaseproof paper. Leave for approximately 2 minutes. See photograph below.

• After 2 minutes remove the pot from the straightener and place it upside down on a fresh piece of greaseproof paper. Press the base of the pot with the opposite end of the tweezers, which will loosen the metal eyeshadow pan underneath. If the pan doesn’t release, put it back on the heat for another minute. See photograph below.

• Once you feel that the pan is loose, flip the pot back over, and then, with your tweezers, carefully grab the metal edge of the eyeshadow and ease it out of the plastic casing. Caution, the mental will be HOT so don’t touch it. See photographs below.

Step 3: Attach Magnet & Label

• Remember the outer casing that was left over from Step 1? You will notice that this has a sticker with the product name on it, which you will want to put on the eyeshadow for future reference. So, place the outer casing (sticker-side down) on the heated straightening irons for 1 minute. See photographs below.

• While you are waiting for the above, turn your attention back to the eyeshadow pan. Now that it has cooled sufficiently to touch, turn it upside down and affix a magnet to it. See photograph below.

• Back to the outer casing again – remove it from the straightening irons and turn it upside down. Remove the label with a tweezers. (If the label isn’t soft enough to manoeuvre then put it back on the heat for another 30 seconds.) Then affix the label the the base of the eyeshadow pan (place it securely over the magnet). See photographs below.

Step 4: Finishing Touches

• Place the eyeshadow pan in the magnetic palette. Et volia, fait accompli!

• If the shadows used are MAC, then be sure that you don’t throw the leftover casing away. Simply snap the leftover inner casing back into the outer casing, and, once you have 6 ‘empties’ collected, you can exchange them at your local MAC counter for a MAC goodie.

I hope this tutorial was of interest to you. As mentioned above, I will do a review of the UNII and Z-Palettes very shortly, which will be of benefit to you if you plan on overhauling your own eye-shadow collection!

Yours in style,
Caroline

Follow us on Facebook, Twitter or via RSS.

Cheryl/Kim Make-up

In my previous post regarding coloured contact lenses, I mentioned that I would do a tutorial on the make-up look that I was wearing for the photos.

Exhibit A:

This is my interpretation of my clients' most-requested make-up look i.e. how to look like Cheryl Cole / Kim Kardashian.

Now, I’m most certainly no Cheryl Cole / Kim Kardashian; however, there are a few make-up tricks that I use which are inspired by these two beauties.

Before I get into the make-up details, I must tell you that right now it’s the middle of the afternoon and I have yet to venture to the post office, supermarket and bank; so, I went for a TONED DOWN version of the look as I didn’t want to startle the locals. Hence, I’m calling this look Cheryl Cole / Kim Kardashian “Lite”.

Product list:

• Primer: Laura Mercier Oil-free Primer
• Foundation: Emporio Armani Luminous Silk Foundation (shade 4)
• Concealer: Bobbi Brown Creamy Concealer (“Warm Ivory”)
• Powder: Rimmel Sheer Loose Powder (“Translucent”)
• Eye Primer: Urban Decay Primer Potion
• Eye-shadow (base): MAC Eye-shadow (“Vex”)
• Eye-Shadow (lid): MAC Eye-shadow (“Patina”)
• Eye-Shadow (crease): MAC Eye-shadow (“Black Tied”)
• Eye-Liner: MAC Fluidline (“Black Track”) / MAC Kohl Pencil (“Smoulder”)
• Blush: Nars Multiple (“Orgasm”)…chuckle
• Bronzer: MAC Powder Bronzer (“Golden”)
• Contouring: MAC Blush (“Harmony”)
• Lips: Bobbi Brown Lip Gloss (“Bright pink”)

You will notice that I’ve used mostly designer brands today. You do not need expensive brands to get this look right, just good techniques.

The Face

The key thing to bear in mind with this look is that your skin needs to look 100% flawless.

• Step 1: Cleanse your face thoroughly and moisturise. Wait for 5 minutes before applying make-up.
• Step 2: Apply your primer with your fingertips, all over your face.
• Step 3: Apply foundation to the areas that require coverage, using a foundation brush or your finger tips.
• Step 4: Apply concealer underneath your eyes and over any blemishes, using a clean concealer brush.
• Step 5: Buff the skin gently with a clean powder brush or stippling brush.
• Step 6: Set your foundation with a light dusting of powder, paying particular attention to the forehead, nose and chin.
• Step 7: Enhance your cheekbones by applying a contouring powder underneath each cheekbone, with a blush brush. Proo trick: suck your cheeks in so that your face looks hollowed – then apply the powder along the hollowed area. Make sure that you blend thoroughly.
• Step 8: Apply blush to the apples of your cheeks. It helps to smile, as this will make the fleshy apply area more visible.
• Step 9: Apply a light amount of bronzer to the areas where the sun naturally hits the face (nose, cheekbones, forehead).

Eyes:

Both Cheryl Cole and Kim Kardashian are proponents of the smokey eye look.

• Step 1: Apply your primer using a brush you’re your fingertips
• Step 2: Cover your lid and brow-bone with your “base” colour (light shade), using a clean eye-shadow brush.
• Step 3: Apply your "lid" colour (medium shade) to each eye-lid using a medium-sized eye-shadow brush (stay under the brow bone).
• Step 4: Starting at the outer corner, shade the crease of your eye (just underneath the browbone) with your “crease” eye-shadow colour (this is the darkest of the 3 colours that you are putting on your lid). Apply it carefully with a small eye-shadow brush, concentrating the colour on the outer corners. Blend blend blend for a soft, flawless finish. I like to apply a light quantity of this colour under the lower lash-line too for balance.
• Step 5: Blend away any harsh eye-shadow lines with a clean blending brush.
• Step 6: Looking downward into a mirror, apply your eyeliner to the upper lash line, as close to the lashes as possible. You can use pencil, gel or liquid (my preference is gel eyeliner, applied with an angled brush). Don’t worry if you make mistakes; I thicken the line slightly to cover up any wobbles.
• Step 7: Apply a pencil eyeliner to the water-line on the lower eye-lid.
• Step 8: Apply 2 generous coats of mascara to the top lashes. Apply a light coating to the lower lashes. You can apply false lashes for a fuller effect if you like.

Lips:

As the focus is on the eyes, keep the lips quite understated. All I do is apply a generous coating of a pale pink lipgloss, which gives a lovely full look. Easy peasy eh!

Voila Smokey Eyes & Hollow Cheekbones

Yours in style,
Caroline